Our weekend away in Mexico City
Hello, and welcome to a special travel edition of Beth's Bawlamore blog. The following is a travelogue of our trip to Mexico City this past weekend:
(BTW, although Paul and I are both fairly well travelled- this was our first (of hopefully many) experiences in Latin America)
Look at pictures from this trip at: http://www.pbase.com/bethb/mexico_city_and_teotihuacan
Friday, April 1st 2005
We arrived in Mexico City after a long day of travel from Baltimore. Up at about 3 am Baltimore time. First, a drive to Dulles, then a layover in Dallas and then finally landing in Mexico City at around 3:30 pm. Both landings were rather bumpy due to windy conditions, with the kind of "coming in for a landing" that feels a bit like a roller coaster ride.
We waited in the international arrivals area as instructed by Sebastian. He noticed Paul first from his picture. His girlfriend Monica had to work, so the three of us headed into town in Sebs' big assed Ford SUV. Big cars aren't as common down there, and you even see tiny European models like Smart Cars as well as the much documented original model VW beetles- many of them the ubiquitous "green taxis". However, with Seb's exhibit work, he needs something he can haul materials and finished projects around in.
When we arrived in the Districo Historico there was a kinda small protest on the zacalo, the main square. Evidently, the mayor of Mexico City is accused of mismanaging funds having to do with building a highway. He's very left leaning, and has great support amongst the green VW bug driving taxis, many of whom are unregistered, with non- valid licenses, etc, so he doesn't regulate them as well as he should. Anyway, the situation is warranting some action by the Federal Government- they want to step in and clean up his money managing. On Friday night, a number of the mayor's supporters turned up waving gold flags (the party's colors) and whatnot in show of support for the mayor. The zacalo is often host to political rallies and music performances. It is also the location of an absolutely enormous flag- which would give that huge flag they fly at Fort McHenry a run for its money. Sebs told us that the flags are actually manufactured in the ol' US of A- by a flag maker in Texas.
Also, that was the evening we ate at Los Girasoles Restaurante http://www.restaurantia.com/imgUpload/imgresto/Imagen2_898.JPG, which is where we ate prehispanic delicacies such as ant eggs, agave worms and fried grasshoppers, and also drank delicious tamarind margaritas. We then caught some dancers that practice an Aztec like tradition- every Wednesday and Friday, they congregate with drummers and some of them wearing elaborate costumes. It's a school, actually. They do these dances, making a circle around the drummers, some with bells on their ankles, some with rattles, some in costume, some in street clothes. The dance steps almost resemble a type of line dance, done to the infectious beat of a native drummer.
Then off to the Hotel Majestic http://www.majestic.com.mx top floor, which overlooks the zocalo, for a drink or two, and a good view of the protesters that remained.
By this time, Paul and I were pretty much tuckered out, so we headed down to Sebs neighborhood- which is sort of the south end of Coyoacan. Paul and I stayed in his studio, in the guest room. He lives 2 doors down in one of the family homes, but is in the process of moving into the studio. His brother, sister in law and sister (and her Dalmatian, Bella) live in the house, too, so he is planning to move into the studio- as he spends all his time there anyway, and to give everyone a bit more room.
We get back to the studio and his cousin and friend are there (they work for him), having a late evening snack. Nice guys, clever, too- they did a temporary fix on the upstairs plumbing as well- although we’ll end up needing to use the downstairs bathroom because there’s not much in the way of water pressure upstairs. The upstairs sink is fine, though- and decorated with little clay birds and trompe l’oeil by his dad back in the day. The studio is filled with art and books and computers and tools- just as you’d expect it to be. Sebs puts on some Muddy Waters and I make a cup of manzanilla/chamomile tea. Paul tries out a little mini bike that Sebs had. He bought it during the scooter phase. Remember that? I take a couple of pictures of Paul, as he looks pretty funny maneuvering round the studio on this tiny little bike.
Eventually we totter off to bed. We stay in the upstairs bedroom. Very comfortable, with a loft like double bed, fresh towels, lighted vanity, small couch, and more books and art.
Saturday, April 2 2005
We wake up, make some coffee and when we’re all cleaned up, we head off for brunch at a nice place with delicious home made bread and pastries in swanky San Angel. This is the kind of place with local clientele – the majority women and families- where the women have perfect manicures, designer clothes and every hair in place… sort of a Beverly Hills of Mexico City or something. It’s about as far from the “bad rap” Mexico City of one’s imagination that you can get. The meal is delicious. We share pastries and have fresh squeezed mandarin juice and cappuccinos. I have a crepe filled with spinach, cheese and béchamel sauce. Paul, of course, has something with sausage. Monica meets us there and ends up spending the rest of the weekend with us, which is really fab. It was great getting to know her.
After brunch, we head on over to the Saturday craft market on the square there in San Angel. Local artists, artisans and craftspeople are displaying their wares. We buy a couple of naïve paintings one the square, in addition to small red “devil with willy” wall sculptures. We head on into the main building where Sebastian’s brother and sister in law have a space. They do really unique painted pottery- in beige, brown and blue. A unique style, I didn’t see any like it duplicated while I was there. We got a few things, and Sebastian surprised us later with some shot cups and a little cat figure. We have a look round a small church with a lovely garden. A girl having her 15th birthday celebration (a big deal in Latin American culture) was there in the garden getting her picture taken in her big bride like dress. Judging from the looks of her, her parents better watch out- she’s lovely.
Then it’s off to Coyaocan, first visiting the Frida Khalo’s “blue house”. I love looking in historic or preserved houses. Each one tells a story and it brings to mind the fun part of dressing movie sets. Putting yourself in the head of the owner, and seeing them through their living space. Her bed with the mirror was there (a tiny twin bed), and a number of her braces, along with brushes, letters, photographs and additional personal items. A number of cats were wandering the courtyard, and I wondered if they were like the cats at Hemingway’s house in Key West- descendants of the original owner’s pets. The cats at the blue house, however were not in possession of the sixth toe, like on the paws of the cats at Hemingway’s, from all those years of inbreeding.
Next, we go to the main square in Coyoacan, which has yet another market. This one sold mostly hippie tat and not the unique goods of the San Angel market. More street food, and we have some fresh potato chips and some other fried snack served with lime and chili. We also had some soft, flat, and round caramely cookie type things that were quite tasty. Have a look around another church- nice churches and cathedrals here!
Sebastian suggests we drive on over to Chapultupec Park to check out a few of the exhibits at the most excellent Anthropology Museum. Both Sebs and his dad worked on many of the permanent exhibitions. He was full of facts, as usual, and we learned much about pre-hispanic Mexican history and saw many interesting artifacts, including the famous Aztec calendar, and figures used as stands where the shaman would place the fresh heart from a human sacrifice victim. One of them was even stained a slightly rust color where the heart would have gone.
We stop by a posh lounge in a hotel nearby and order snacks and drinks while we chat and listen to lounge music. Eventually, we head back south again, back to the studio and a night’s sleep.
Sunday, April 3rd 2005
We get up early for a Sunday, but not too horribly early, pack up a cooler with cold drinks and head on north towards the pyramids at Teotihuacan. These things are massive and climbing the two main ones- pyramids of the sun and moon, is a huffing and puffing feat. The view from the tops are worth it, though. On the very top of the pyramid of the sun, a local will strike a Tibetan (?) bell and then run the wood mallet around the outside of the bell so that it rings out like a glass being played by a wet finger, whilst the participant raises their arms to the sky in hopes of receiving positive energy. I raise my hands to the sky and get a funny feeling in my hands, but I suspect that it’s just my circulation, in the heat, at this altitude (much higher than Baltimore, of course), reacting to having my hands in the air. Or maybe not. A couple of elderly ladies and several people with tiny babes in arms make the journey, hoping to absorb some of this pyramid energy.
People on the ground try to flog blunt play arrows and repro artifacts, along with tacky figurines, lace Aztec calendar tablecloths, and glass pyramids. Oh- and some much needed cold bottled water. We go through the couple of bottles brought from the car quickly in the heat, so the water hawkers are welcome.
The complex is massive. The views from the tops almost don’t seem real. I feel so far away from an ordinary weekend, sitting in the red chair at home reading the New York Times, that I feel compelled to comment on it.
After we finish, we head off to a little village called San Miguel, which is right next to the town Texcoco. This is where Sebastian’s brother and sister in law live and have their studio, and where his parents have retired to for a quieter life, and where today’s lunch is bring served.
We arrive and meet some of the rest of his family. The house and property are lovely, and his family are friendly and polite. His sister speaks good English so we joke around with her and hear about the Paris marathon she plans to run the following weekend. She’s a stunner- we have a friend who lives in Barcelona who would go for her in a big way- he’s got a thing for tallish, beautiful Mexican girls. She’s got a boyfriend though, who seems nice enough. He does yoga (more on this in a bit). There’s lamb and sausage (which Paul eats), a beef salad, veggies, guacamole, these lentil cornmeal thingys, pasta and sauce, seafood salad, and some other usual cook out staples. We drink horchata and tequila with fizzy lemon and hang out. There’s 3 hammocks. It’s very relaxing there in the backyard. They pull out his sister’s trampoline. His sister jumps up and down whilst her boyfriend sits in the middle in lotus position- her jumping sends him flying up and down. Very funny. At some point Sebastian puts on the Mexican wrestling mask he picked up at the Coyoacan market the day before (Paul got one, too) and hops up and down on the trampoline. More hilarity ensues. Eventually, out comes some coffee and dessert. Something called an “impossible cake” which has a bottom of moist chocolate cake and a top made of flan with some whipped cream on top. Just delicious!
Eventually Paul joins in a pick up game of soccer/football with Sebs, his nephew, his brother and Monica. The light starts to fade so we dismantle the trampoline, and put away the chairs and tables that were under the killer backyard patio (with built in brick bar b que!). We say our good bys. His dad tells us in halting English that it was great having us there and we are always welcome. His family is really quite special.
Leftovers for Sebs in tow, we ride back into the city. We head to San Angel to a swanky Mexican Spanish French place and get Sangria and snacks. I get another crepe. This one stuffed with mushrooms and gruyere. It’s yummy and creamy.
Monday, April 4th 2005
I wake up in the night not feeling so hot. I either have caught the stomach flu that’s been going around or I’ve got a touch of Montezuma’s revenge. Sebs runs out and gets me pepto and orders me to take some right away. He also gives Paul and I each a CD of Mexican and latin music to remind us of our trip. We’re already talking of the next one and maybe going to Oaxaca. We make our way to the aeropuerto, and two flights and about 12-1/2 hours later we’re home.
Tuesday it’s back to work. Now, only 2 days after our return and I stay up late to finish this entry before the memory starts to fade. The pictures turned out great. I viewed them as “slide show” at least twice before finishing this entry.
To Sebs and Monica- It’s your turn next- nuestra casa es su casa!
Adios for now,
Beth
(BTW, although Paul and I are both fairly well travelled- this was our first (of hopefully many) experiences in Latin America)
Look at pictures from this trip at: http://www.pbase.com/bethb/mexico_city_and_teotihuacan
Friday, April 1st 2005
We arrived in Mexico City after a long day of travel from Baltimore. Up at about 3 am Baltimore time. First, a drive to Dulles, then a layover in Dallas and then finally landing in Mexico City at around 3:30 pm. Both landings were rather bumpy due to windy conditions, with the kind of "coming in for a landing" that feels a bit like a roller coaster ride.
We waited in the international arrivals area as instructed by Sebastian. He noticed Paul first from his picture. His girlfriend Monica had to work, so the three of us headed into town in Sebs' big assed Ford SUV. Big cars aren't as common down there, and you even see tiny European models like Smart Cars as well as the much documented original model VW beetles- many of them the ubiquitous "green taxis". However, with Seb's exhibit work, he needs something he can haul materials and finished projects around in.
When we arrived in the Districo Historico there was a kinda small protest on the zacalo, the main square. Evidently, the mayor of Mexico City is accused of mismanaging funds having to do with building a highway. He's very left leaning, and has great support amongst the green VW bug driving taxis, many of whom are unregistered, with non- valid licenses, etc, so he doesn't regulate them as well as he should. Anyway, the situation is warranting some action by the Federal Government- they want to step in and clean up his money managing. On Friday night, a number of the mayor's supporters turned up waving gold flags (the party's colors) and whatnot in show of support for the mayor. The zacalo is often host to political rallies and music performances. It is also the location of an absolutely enormous flag- which would give that huge flag they fly at Fort McHenry a run for its money. Sebs told us that the flags are actually manufactured in the ol' US of A- by a flag maker in Texas.
Also, that was the evening we ate at Los Girasoles Restaurante http://www.restaurantia.com/imgUpload/imgresto/Imagen2_898.JPG, which is where we ate prehispanic delicacies such as ant eggs, agave worms and fried grasshoppers, and also drank delicious tamarind margaritas. We then caught some dancers that practice an Aztec like tradition- every Wednesday and Friday, they congregate with drummers and some of them wearing elaborate costumes. It's a school, actually. They do these dances, making a circle around the drummers, some with bells on their ankles, some with rattles, some in costume, some in street clothes. The dance steps almost resemble a type of line dance, done to the infectious beat of a native drummer.
Then off to the Hotel Majestic http://www.majestic.com.mx top floor, which overlooks the zocalo, for a drink or two, and a good view of the protesters that remained.
By this time, Paul and I were pretty much tuckered out, so we headed down to Sebs neighborhood- which is sort of the south end of Coyoacan. Paul and I stayed in his studio, in the guest room. He lives 2 doors down in one of the family homes, but is in the process of moving into the studio. His brother, sister in law and sister (and her Dalmatian, Bella) live in the house, too, so he is planning to move into the studio- as he spends all his time there anyway, and to give everyone a bit more room.
We get back to the studio and his cousin and friend are there (they work for him), having a late evening snack. Nice guys, clever, too- they did a temporary fix on the upstairs plumbing as well- although we’ll end up needing to use the downstairs bathroom because there’s not much in the way of water pressure upstairs. The upstairs sink is fine, though- and decorated with little clay birds and trompe l’oeil by his dad back in the day. The studio is filled with art and books and computers and tools- just as you’d expect it to be. Sebs puts on some Muddy Waters and I make a cup of manzanilla/chamomile tea. Paul tries out a little mini bike that Sebs had. He bought it during the scooter phase. Remember that? I take a couple of pictures of Paul, as he looks pretty funny maneuvering round the studio on this tiny little bike.
Eventually we totter off to bed. We stay in the upstairs bedroom. Very comfortable, with a loft like double bed, fresh towels, lighted vanity, small couch, and more books and art.
Saturday, April 2 2005
We wake up, make some coffee and when we’re all cleaned up, we head off for brunch at a nice place with delicious home made bread and pastries in swanky San Angel. This is the kind of place with local clientele – the majority women and families- where the women have perfect manicures, designer clothes and every hair in place… sort of a Beverly Hills of Mexico City or something. It’s about as far from the “bad rap” Mexico City of one’s imagination that you can get. The meal is delicious. We share pastries and have fresh squeezed mandarin juice and cappuccinos. I have a crepe filled with spinach, cheese and béchamel sauce. Paul, of course, has something with sausage. Monica meets us there and ends up spending the rest of the weekend with us, which is really fab. It was great getting to know her.
After brunch, we head on over to the Saturday craft market on the square there in San Angel. Local artists, artisans and craftspeople are displaying their wares. We buy a couple of naïve paintings one the square, in addition to small red “devil with willy” wall sculptures. We head on into the main building where Sebastian’s brother and sister in law have a space. They do really unique painted pottery- in beige, brown and blue. A unique style, I didn’t see any like it duplicated while I was there. We got a few things, and Sebastian surprised us later with some shot cups and a little cat figure. We have a look round a small church with a lovely garden. A girl having her 15th birthday celebration (a big deal in Latin American culture) was there in the garden getting her picture taken in her big bride like dress. Judging from the looks of her, her parents better watch out- she’s lovely.
Then it’s off to Coyaocan, first visiting the Frida Khalo’s “blue house”. I love looking in historic or preserved houses. Each one tells a story and it brings to mind the fun part of dressing movie sets. Putting yourself in the head of the owner, and seeing them through their living space. Her bed with the mirror was there (a tiny twin bed), and a number of her braces, along with brushes, letters, photographs and additional personal items. A number of cats were wandering the courtyard, and I wondered if they were like the cats at Hemingway’s house in Key West- descendants of the original owner’s pets. The cats at the blue house, however were not in possession of the sixth toe, like on the paws of the cats at Hemingway’s, from all those years of inbreeding.
Next, we go to the main square in Coyoacan, which has yet another market. This one sold mostly hippie tat and not the unique goods of the San Angel market. More street food, and we have some fresh potato chips and some other fried snack served with lime and chili. We also had some soft, flat, and round caramely cookie type things that were quite tasty. Have a look around another church- nice churches and cathedrals here!
Sebastian suggests we drive on over to Chapultupec Park to check out a few of the exhibits at the most excellent Anthropology Museum. Both Sebs and his dad worked on many of the permanent exhibitions. He was full of facts, as usual, and we learned much about pre-hispanic Mexican history and saw many interesting artifacts, including the famous Aztec calendar, and figures used as stands where the shaman would place the fresh heart from a human sacrifice victim. One of them was even stained a slightly rust color where the heart would have gone.
We stop by a posh lounge in a hotel nearby and order snacks and drinks while we chat and listen to lounge music. Eventually, we head back south again, back to the studio and a night’s sleep.
Sunday, April 3rd 2005
We get up early for a Sunday, but not too horribly early, pack up a cooler with cold drinks and head on north towards the pyramids at Teotihuacan. These things are massive and climbing the two main ones- pyramids of the sun and moon, is a huffing and puffing feat. The view from the tops are worth it, though. On the very top of the pyramid of the sun, a local will strike a Tibetan (?) bell and then run the wood mallet around the outside of the bell so that it rings out like a glass being played by a wet finger, whilst the participant raises their arms to the sky in hopes of receiving positive energy. I raise my hands to the sky and get a funny feeling in my hands, but I suspect that it’s just my circulation, in the heat, at this altitude (much higher than Baltimore, of course), reacting to having my hands in the air. Or maybe not. A couple of elderly ladies and several people with tiny babes in arms make the journey, hoping to absorb some of this pyramid energy.
People on the ground try to flog blunt play arrows and repro artifacts, along with tacky figurines, lace Aztec calendar tablecloths, and glass pyramids. Oh- and some much needed cold bottled water. We go through the couple of bottles brought from the car quickly in the heat, so the water hawkers are welcome.
The complex is massive. The views from the tops almost don’t seem real. I feel so far away from an ordinary weekend, sitting in the red chair at home reading the New York Times, that I feel compelled to comment on it.
After we finish, we head off to a little village called San Miguel, which is right next to the town Texcoco. This is where Sebastian’s brother and sister in law live and have their studio, and where his parents have retired to for a quieter life, and where today’s lunch is bring served.
We arrive and meet some of the rest of his family. The house and property are lovely, and his family are friendly and polite. His sister speaks good English so we joke around with her and hear about the Paris marathon she plans to run the following weekend. She’s a stunner- we have a friend who lives in Barcelona who would go for her in a big way- he’s got a thing for tallish, beautiful Mexican girls. She’s got a boyfriend though, who seems nice enough. He does yoga (more on this in a bit). There’s lamb and sausage (which Paul eats), a beef salad, veggies, guacamole, these lentil cornmeal thingys, pasta and sauce, seafood salad, and some other usual cook out staples. We drink horchata and tequila with fizzy lemon and hang out. There’s 3 hammocks. It’s very relaxing there in the backyard. They pull out his sister’s trampoline. His sister jumps up and down whilst her boyfriend sits in the middle in lotus position- her jumping sends him flying up and down. Very funny. At some point Sebastian puts on the Mexican wrestling mask he picked up at the Coyoacan market the day before (Paul got one, too) and hops up and down on the trampoline. More hilarity ensues. Eventually, out comes some coffee and dessert. Something called an “impossible cake” which has a bottom of moist chocolate cake and a top made of flan with some whipped cream on top. Just delicious!
Eventually Paul joins in a pick up game of soccer/football with Sebs, his nephew, his brother and Monica. The light starts to fade so we dismantle the trampoline, and put away the chairs and tables that were under the killer backyard patio (with built in brick bar b que!). We say our good bys. His dad tells us in halting English that it was great having us there and we are always welcome. His family is really quite special.
Leftovers for Sebs in tow, we ride back into the city. We head to San Angel to a swanky Mexican Spanish French place and get Sangria and snacks. I get another crepe. This one stuffed with mushrooms and gruyere. It’s yummy and creamy.
Monday, April 4th 2005
I wake up in the night not feeling so hot. I either have caught the stomach flu that’s been going around or I’ve got a touch of Montezuma’s revenge. Sebs runs out and gets me pepto and orders me to take some right away. He also gives Paul and I each a CD of Mexican and latin music to remind us of our trip. We’re already talking of the next one and maybe going to Oaxaca. We make our way to the aeropuerto, and two flights and about 12-1/2 hours later we’re home.
Tuesday it’s back to work. Now, only 2 days after our return and I stay up late to finish this entry before the memory starts to fade. The pictures turned out great. I viewed them as “slide show” at least twice before finishing this entry.
To Sebs and Monica- It’s your turn next- nuestra casa es su casa!
Adios for now,
Beth
posted by Beth @ 8:07 AM
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